No is Not a Four Letter Word

Saying no can be the most loving word we can say at times. It doesn't seem that way but it is. It's our responsibility to keep our dawg safe from harm.

When a puppy or an adult dawg does something that he shouldn't do, it's up to us to build a positive relationship filled with trust and teach them right from wrong. That includes teaching them not to chew things they shouldn't, stealing food, using your house as a toilet and much more.

Our dawgs are what we make of them but of course they each have their very own unique personalities that do play a part in the mix.

Some dawgs are step over the line dawgs and others are eager to please every chance they get. As humans, each of us like different types of dawgs due to lifestyles and our own personalities but even with that in mind, the dawgs still need rules and boundaries and consistency.

How do you get 'no' across in a positive way? When you say firmly 'no' and interrupt a behavior, he'll learn to associate the word 'no' with stop and look to you for direction. You can then use affection or a treat as a reward.

Even the most spirited dawg should never be man handled. What you will get in return is a fearful dawg. Fearful dawgs either use flight or bite to deal with fear or worse. Neither is what you want to achieve. What you want is a positive relationship where your dawg looks forward to doing what you want and living by your rules. Once he realizes that by doing so there are many rewards then the rest of the training gets easier.

Sure we all get frustrated but as someone who has seen way too many dawgs that are fearful, positive training is always the way to go.

More tomorrow.>>

© Content published on this page has been a collaborative effort and provided by, and copyrighted by Darlah Potechin and Nathan Potechin (talemakerhavanese.com). No unauthorized reproduction or re-publication in any medium whatsoever is permitted without prior written permission.

Dog Socialization

Do you want a Havanese who is friendly and trustworthy around both people and other dogs? How you care for your dog plays a big role in how he responds to people and other dawgs--especially if you've got a puppy. But adults can be conditioned as well. Havanese puppies are sponges and are more readily acceptable to conditioning.

There's a period in a puppy's development, from very early puppy-hood, to five months of age, when his experiences have a big effect on his entire approach to life. If he has lots of positive encounters with other dogs, all kinds of humans, and new situations during that developmental window, he's far more likely to grow up to be a confident, relaxed, and friendly dog. Trainers call this process socialization. I call it positive exposure.

The two best schools we have attended locally are 'Whos Walking Who' and Daytripper Dog Training. Both do an excellent job in giving you critical skills in socializing. Their scavenger list gets you to be competitive and gives exposure to your dog in ways you may not have considered.

Puppies who aren't socialized can grow up to be fearful of other dogs, people, and just about anyone and anything outside of their regular routine and that fear can lead to fear aggression.

Although puppy-hood is the prime time for socialization, it's not the only time. Even a dog who had a busy social life in his youth can become less friendly over time if he's isolated during adulthood. The learning and socialization should NEVER stop. And if your adult dog didn't get enough socialization growing up, you may be able to improve his social skills although an adult's personality is more fixed than a puppy's. You'll have to move slowly and cautiously, and if you see signs of aggression or extreme timidity, get help from a professional trainer or behaviorist right away.

We have an old lady Golden Retriever (that we "rescued" many years ago) that was afraid of EVERYTHING (see current pix above) and by slow conditioning on a daily basis, it has changed her world. Silly things like the dog who was always barking behind the fence at the corner of our street every time anyone walked past and us talking to that dog each time in an upbeat voice changed the way the dog dealt with us walking past. It also changed the way our Golden reacted. It was an easy way to help BOTH dawgs.

Critical Stage
Don't ever take a puppy away from his mother and littermates before eight weeks of age. You won't get a pup from us before a minimum of 10 weeks of age. Interactions with their mom and siblings teach young puppies a lot about getting along with other dogs. If you take your puppy away from his canine family too early, you'll do damage to his social skills. They are recoverable to a point but it will take a long time and much persistence. That window between 8 and 10 weeks is critical as mom is usually not feeding them any longer or on a rare occasion and can invest time in teaching and playing without pups thinking of her as a feeding machine. They will learn skills on a daily basis if the Breeder is doing their job helping the socialization along with the mom, littermates and the pack that resides at the location. It's all a part of the experience and should be a positive and constructive one.

Give your dog plenty of positive experiences with other dogs. Obedience classes, safe dog park romps, and playdates with your friends' dogs will help them learn how to get along with other canines. For puppies, playing with other pups teaches them bite inhibition.

When we board dogs, they not only get daily grooming, walks and play sessions but they learn how to read other dogs - how to fit in and how to relax and learn to play with a pack. We help this along by introducing a newbie on a one on one basis and then we start adding a dog at a time to allow them to gain their comfort. We know who in our pack will help bring someone out and help them fit in. Once one does, the entire pack follows suit. Even the most timid dog realizes before they go home that this is a safe environment and other dogs are not scary but also welcoming. By boarding, we help our pack as well as a dog that is unfamiliar with a number of dogs. Of course we also tend to get party guy dogs that can be oblivious to anything and that's fun and good for the pack as it bumps the play up a notch. All of these things are positive experiences.

Give your dog plenty of happy experiences with all kinds of people. Big kids, little kids, running-skipping-yelling kids, tall men in hats, wheelchairs, round women in hats, and people of every shape, color, and size. If your dog gets regular exposure to humans of all stripes, especially in puppy-hood, he's less likely to be fearful or fear aggressive. Experts recommend throwing "puppy parties" to expose a young pup to lots of different people when he's learning how to behave around humans but when you do this, know the dogs involved and do a one on one. You can also have your dog make friends with the mail carrier and your neighbors, and take him to cafes, stores that allow, on public transportation or to work. Be sure to slow condition your dog to riding in a car. The more you expose them with a fun result at the end, the more they will look forward to it. Even if they get car sick, you should keep it up daily. Drive to that local path or park and that will be a reward in itself.

Let your dog live indoors with you not segregated. A dog who lives in the home, with his human pack all around him, will be more comfortable with people and the noises and busy-ness of the household, and he'll be much happier too.

Expose your dog to all kinds of noises and experiences. Skateboards, bicycles, lawn mowers, vacuum cleaners, balloons breaking, pans falling, dishwashers, washing machines and the like can frighten a dog who's not used to them.

Be sure to slow condition them to nail trimming, grooming and baths. Even if they do not need it, groom them for a few minutes daily and make it fun. End with a treat or massage or both. If you do, they will be like mine - waiting in line for their turn.

Eliminate any possible food aggression early. Many a puppy will snap treats out of your hand and hurt. Close your hand. Get them to calm down and then open your hand to allow them to acquire the treat. Only give them the treat when they calm down. This can take a minute or two or even longer when you first try it. They get the treat when you give it to them, and for the right reasons, not when they take it. This is an important lesson.

Be sure to play in their food dish. This may sound crazy but it is a must. The more they get used to you near and in their bowl, the more they will put food guarding out of their mind.

Bottom line: Teaching your pup to be dog and people-friendly is your most important job as a dog owner. Give your pup regular exposure to dogs and all kinds of people, especially during puppy-hood, and you're more likely to have a confident, sociable dog.
They are what you put into them.

© Content published on this page has been a collaborative effort and provided by, and copyrighted by Darlah Potechin and Nathan Potechin (talemakerhavanese.com). No unauthorized reproduction or re-publication in any medium whatsoever is permitted without prior written permission.

Is Your Havanese Assertive or Aggressive?

Is your dog neutered? Neutered or not, if your dog is humping, it is exerting it's desire to be top dog and he/she assumes you are either on the same level or subservient.

Dominant dogs may show signs of dominance in various ways; they may object to being petted on the head; they may protect food, toys or their bed; or they may resist grooming, nail trims or discipline or they may growl when disturbed.

Dominance aggression usually peaks between 18 to 24 months of age, as the dog reaches social maturity. Since dominance arises from learned social interactions, dogs are not born dominant, only with a tendency for dominance to develop. Young dogs that are predisposed to developing dominance may periodically challenge their owners. Potential warning signs in young dogs include excessive "mouthiness," body blocking from physical to blocking the entrance to a room etc, pushing, pawing or leaning on the owner, growling when disturbed, and resisting handling particularly of the feet or head.

Once you (the family) establishes the leadership role over the dog, problems related to dominance can often be resolved. It's when the leadership role of the humans are not solidly in place that it leads to an escalation of challenges which can lead to aggression. However, it is important to monitor your dog's position in the family hierarchy on a regular basis and to take measures, if necessary, to prevent a resurgence of dominant behavior.

But often people confuse dominance vs. assertiveness. The term dominance is often used erroneously. You should only use the term when describing the ability to maintain or regulate access to some resource (food, toys, coveted person etc) in a staged contest. The word dominant should not be used to describe a dog that is merely assertive, confident, or pushy. A dog can be pushy or assertive without being dominantly aggressive; such a dog can "talk back", but it isn't aggressive. Pushiness or assertiveness is a personality type. In fact, many owners prefer confident dogs because they work well in obedience situations and in the show rings and are thought to have good personalities or what some term - charming over the top personalities. The terms dominance and dominance aggression are often used erroneously, you can end up handling the situation in an ineffective manner.

Because it is associated with social contexts, dominance aggression is most likely an anxiety disorder where a dog has not found effective coping skills nor has it been socialized sufficiently early enough to understand correct social exchanges but if this didn't happen, it's never too late. Dogs with dominance aggression can be divided into two broad groups: 1) those that know they are in control and can compel their owners to do their bidding, and 2) those that are unsure of their social roles and use aggressive behavior to discover what's expected of them. Contrary to the commonly held view of dominance aggression, dogs in the first group are rare. Most dominantly aggressive dogs are in the second group. These dogs receive information about their social and behavioral boundaries based on how their owners react to their aggression. This is analogous to disruptive and sometimes aggressive teen-age children with behavior problems. Dogs in this category appear to be less sure of their relative hierarchical status. They express more ambiguity in their vocal and physical responses to what they perceive as threats. Dogs in the second group do not direct aggression equally toward all people because they respond differently to each social interaction. They are emotionally floundering.

Most dogs in the second group also exhibit attention-getting behavior. These dogs are needy and are constantly setting people up to attend and defer to them. They have an abnormal urge to control and often challenge others to determine their roles in the social environment and often feel lost when you don't do what they expect.

Many people struggle with their roles with their dogs and that's where the trouble begins. But he/she won't love me if I don't... fill in the blank. Mix that with a dog that likes to step over the line and test its boundaries and it can equal trouble. There are many signs before a dog bites but we just don't have the tools or ability for whatever reason to nip it in the bud early on and then we play recovery. It's NEVER too late though unless your dog has been picked up for biting and then - maybe it is.

Confidence building works wonder with dogs that are floundering. Once they know they can achieve and are applauded for achieving, it's like a light bulb comes on and the process moves forward. I have to say, it's the most rewarding thing to see. But - it takes you being consistent, putting in the effort and never giving up.

© Content published on this page has been a collaborative effort and provided by, and copyrighted by Darlah Potechin and Nathan Potechin (talemakerhavanese.com). No unauthorized reproduction or re-publication in any medium whatsoever is permitted without prior written permission.

Making Your Home Dawg Friendly

You may say that the Havanese canines in the Talemaker house rules the roost but really they do not. We just like to make their lives more interesting. By doing so, we get more laughs, more warmth and tales that can be remembered forever.

First of all, our couches are covered by blankets designed for such (bought at Costco) and they only come off when we have non dog people show up that don't quite get it. They have soft blankets on top so they can snuggle right in behind our neck while we watch TV.

Okay, if we were real dawg people - wouldn't we say - this is our life so deal with it? Perhaps but if Ontario Premier Dalton McGuinty came to visit (fat chance) well maybe we would want to make it less dawg like but maybe not. He's not really known as a dawg person so maybe he needs some 'slow conditioning'. I doubt we will ever find out if THAT works.

We buy our furniture and set up our rooms to make sure we have secret hiding places - little nooks in which we can place a dog mat, a blanket to give the charm of a hidden place where they can lay and watch the lay of the land.

As you can see in this photo, it is as easy as throwing a cheap pillow, a blanket, or a dog mat under something to give your dawg a den effect.

You can click on any of the photos to give a larger view - always.

Even under my desk - which I work at, I have a couple of beds, a crate all nice and cozy with toys and soft blankies. This works to hide the cords from teething pups and creates a homey place to be near you. They don't call them velcro dawgs for nothing.

Nathan has the same under his desk - minus the crate.

For a dawg that isn't used to a crate, a cozy crate in a special place near you that looks inviting, comfie with a door open is an open invitation to 'slow conditioning' that helps them see it as a positive thing vs. a negative. We do not use crates in our house except to lend them comfort in case they are ever in need of going to the vet (spaying/neutering) and need to be in it. A dog not feeling up to par should not have the extra stress of dealing with uncomfortable surroundings and dealing with the confinement of a crate. You do your dawg no favours not at least getting them familiar with one.

We also bought a cheap leather bench that the little ones can hide under, it can go up flush against the couch so the dawgs can lay on it while we lay on the couch on those days where you need some space and extra room or if you are really crazy and simply have too many to lay all over you, this gives you extra space. If you decide to sit up, then your legs can lay on it - win/win.

Even our tables next to the couch have pillows on the floor under them for comfie spots for the dawgs. We often find our Wasabi under one of these just lovin' the idea that it is open but also lends an air of being hidden. Here she is wetter than a rag from playing it the sopping snow laying in wait until I brush her out and dry her off a bit.

Then we made the really big leap of moving a twin bed into our bedroom next to the king size bed so all the Havanese dawgs could sleep comfie with us. (see the top photo in this article) We need to create a bed that folds so it fits outdoors but is wide enough with spacial sheets - heh - or do we? Maybe just make a headboard that holds it all together but keeps its separate? The verdict is still out on THAT!

I started doing this when our dawg numbers increased and I found how much humans enjoyed our garden as I had a hidden treasure of an elf, or a dragon in a spot not expected. I figured if the humans find this 'fun' then the dawgs also would appreciate this type of arrangement.

If I ever won the lottery, we would have fun designing a true dawg house for us to live in with our four legged friends but till then, we will be satisfied with making it interesting for our crew and therefore for us.

© Content published on this page has been a collaborative effort and provided by, and copyrighted by Darlah Potechin and Nathan Potechin (talemakerhavanese.com). No unauthorized reproduction or re-publication in any medium whatsoever is permitted without prior written permission.

The Trick Is In The Training

Everyone enjoys a well behaved dog but it takes time. You can go to classes - a bonus as they also get exposed to other dogs and you learn all the tricks of the trade or you can teach them yourself. It's easier after you have taken classes - it just is.

We all know that to fool a dog into a 'sit', you take the treat in front of the dog and draw it back over their head forcing the dog to go into a sit. (see how nicely Abigail is sitting next to Nathan here.) The sweeping you do with your hand with the treat will also serve as your hand command. Then it's all in the timing. You should associate the word with the command by saying 'sit' and praise/treat immediately. You can use a clicker or not but by doing both hand signals and voice and testing later on you will cover all bases if your dog is across the park. Plus in later years, if their ears aren't all they should be in the hearing department, they will already have the hand signal in place. Bonus even if you don't have to use it. You may find yourself in a place where a loud voice is not appropriate and a hand signal is best used. So - teach both.

If your dog is a tad stubborn, you can take their rump and gently put it into position and say the 'sit' command and praise even though you had to place them in this position. Do it over and over again and when they do it on their own give them several treats at once - called a jackpot to reinforce that the goal is to sit not be placed into a sit.

Training should be daily on one command at first and move on to adding another after the first is solid then adding the solid command in at the end after teaching them a new command. This way you end on a solid note and your dog enjoys it, you enjoy it.

Just the simple 'sit' command can be used in so many ways. If your dog barks at the door and you want him to cease the behavior after the announcement, a 'sit' command will refocus your dog and get them to settle. You can practice sits on walks at streets where you want them to wait for the signal to change. We do this when we cross Bayview or any busy street at each corner giving a 'sit' command and a 'stay'. They get rewarded and then we use a 'heel' command to cross the street. As you go along, you will find a number of ways to practice the commands in every day life therefore a strict training session will not be necessary unless introducing a new command. Training sessions should only be 5 to 10 minute sessions. We do them in our kitchen with one dog at a time.

We are now into teaching Fiona as she has yet to have all her shots but she will be ahead of the game when it comes to her turn to go to classes and yes, she will go so she can be exposed to other dogs in a positive and controlled fashion.

After sitting, teach your dog to pay attention to you with a 'look at me' command. Take your treat to their nose, bring the treat up to your eye and use the moment where he follows the treat to your face to click (if you have a clicker) say 'watch me' or 'look at me' - or even simply their name - whatever you are comfortable with and reward. This command comes in handy when you want to draw their attention to you instead of something that you don't want them paying attention to. You can also practice this on your daily walks. Sounds like a crazy command but really useful in many situations after you have it pretty solid.

Then after this, you can move on to 'stay' As you can see Nathan is teaching an 'advance' form of 'stay' to Abigail but when you first start, you wave the hand in front of their face in a sweeping movement and say 'stay;. Then you walk directly in front (close)and return to their side and reward. If they get up, you quickly place them in a sit position and start again. Do it till you get a success and build on it going further and further away and then ultimately around the back of them and then trying it with distractions.

A fun command to teach is 'come' and we should remind you never to get your dog to come to do something they do not want to do. If you do, you end up reinforcing why they shouldn't follow the command. As this is such an important command, you should do it with enthusiasm. After your dog has learned a 'stay', put them in a 'sit' and then a 'stay' and go out in front of them. Sweep your hand down and towards you and in an upbeat voice say their name and the word 'come'. Reward them when they come.

We are working on a 'finish' this week but we will elaborate on that one later. We will also add our own fun ones that we aren't doing in class just to mix it up over the next week and keep it interesting. Remember, if you skip too many days in training, you are usually back at square one with the 'new' command. Try to do it daily. You will see amazing results if you do.

© Content published on this page has been a collaborative effort and provided by, and copyrighted by Darlah Potechin and Nathan Potechin (talemakerhavanese.com). No unauthorized reproduction or re-publication in any medium whatsoever is permitted without prior written permission.

Valentine's Havanese Dog Hazards

Pet precautions should be taken during the Valentine's Day celebrations. Havanese, like kids, love to get into forbidden goodies and especially the puppy crew. Unfortunately, your Havanese raiding the chocolate supply can face needless suffering or even death.

Instead of buying candy, why not get your love one a Havanese shirt or mug or? Maggie Ross does some interesting designs that you can hint for.

Each spring animal clinics and hospitals see an increase in visits during the spring time holidays. Valentine's Day and Easter pose the greatest hazards to our Havanese living with chocolate lovers. A bit of caution can save the life of your Havanese.

Chocolate is toxic to animals and if enough is ingested it can create complications or kill an animal. Symptoms from chocolate ingestion include hyperactivity, tremors, racing heartbeat, and seizures. Damage to the liver can also occur and is not so obvious. It is risky to leave boxes of candy out anywhere in the house. As little as four ounces is enough to kill a ten pound dog or cat.

Your Havanese love to explore with their mouths and make playthings out of everything so expect the worst and keep those lovely gifts and treats out of reach.

© Content published on this page has been a collaborative effort and provided by, and copyrighted by Darlah Potechin and Nathan Potechin (talemakerhavanese.com). No unauthorized reproduction or re-publication in any medium whatsoever is permitted without prior written permission.

Havanese Christmas Safety Tips

Thousands of our furry friends end up lost, injured or sick during the winter holidays. Take a few moments to learn how you can easily make this holiday season a safe and happy one for your Havanese dogs and puppies.

Chocolate and candy canes, trees and garlands can create emergency veterinarian visits for obstructed bowels after the tinsel on the tree mysteriously disappears, chocolate poisoning from careless children leaving their treats out, and turkey bones from the garbage that must be removed from an intestine. Be careful with your little ones. It's too easy to get caught up in the celebration of the season and a puppy can quickly get into things they shouldn't.

Untrained pups tend to 'bolt' out of an open door or gate and may not be missed for hours. Pups can easily be stepped on while trying to navigate their way through all the extra feet. Children can accidentally injure a puppy during rough play if adults are too busy to monitor them. Prevent injury to your pup by setting up a playpen or using a child safety gate to create a safe place for your pet to access food, water and a potty area away from all the activity.

Holiday plants such as mistletoe, poinsettias, lilies and holly can poison or make your Havanese very sick. These should be placed in areas that cannot be reached by your Havanese or younger children. Most kids instinctively pluck at plants, taste leaves and petals or offer them to pets.

Don't forget to spend quality time with the fur-family - sometimes we get so caught up in the activities and family events, we don't take time for walks and play sessions with our buddies - which are an excellent way to de-stress from the busy-ness of the holidays and our furry pals can also allow us to cope with Aunt or Uncle so and so telling you what to do. There's nothing better than a Havanese distraction.

If your Havanese is young, do not let the stress of the holidays come in the way of POSITIVE training. If you are too busy and forget to take your little one out, well - you are to blame not your pup if they have an accident. It's too easy over the holidays to get distracted and mistakes do happen but then there is always the next day to get you and your little one on the right path. They do love to learn and when it is positive, and you use huge praise when they do the 'right' thing, well they will do it again and again. Havanese are natural people pleasers if they know what you want.

Keep electrical cords away from the curious Havanese. You CAN get tubing available in Home Depot that covers cords. This gives you a barrier from them biting through a cord but the best protection is watching your little one or containing them in an x-pen or crate when it is impossible to do so.

Tinsel or angel hair on the tree can be a grave concern for your Havanese as it is exciting to see and therefore will attract them. If they eat it, it can twist in their intestines or stomach. Place a barrier between your pup and your tree or a gate across the room when you can't watch them every minute or best yet, don't use tinsel. Place an x-pen or screen around your tree. I know it's not so pretty but I saw someone who actually decorated theirs at the top and it looked trendy fab!.

Be cautious of piling Christmas presents under the tree and allowing unlimited access. Wrapping paper is exciting to your dog and you may find many unwrapped presents, You can't really blame your little one either if you don't watch them and expect them to know this is a 'no touch' area. This takes training.

Tree water at the base of live trees can be harmful if preservative chemicals have been added to prolong the life of the tree. Keep your dog from drinking the water by covering the tree basin with foil or a tree skirt.

Hang your ornaments with ribbons rather than hooks to keep your dog from accidentally swallowing something that could get lodged in his throat.

If you're having guests over, try to leave a room available as a "quiet room" for the pets to escape to, especially if there are a lot of boisterous children. Play with your dog before your party. If you tire him out, he’ll be too tired to get into any mischief when guests arrive.

Anchor your christmas tree to the ceiling or wall behind it. The tree can be pulled down by a quick tug and not only create a lot of damage but quite a mess.

Don’t use toothpicks. Try not to use toothpicks for hors d’oeurves because your Havanese can eat the toothpicks if they are dropped on the floor and they can get stuck in his throat or puncture internal organs.

Antifreeze tastes sweet and many dogs are attracted to it. Just a few drops can be fatal. Do not let your havanese eat anything that can be found on the ground outside. You simply do not know if it is tainted and most times it can cause stomach issues, at the very least.

Hypothermia can pose a danger during severe cold. Puppies, old dogs, and sick dogs are most vulnerable. Dress your dog in winter clothing or restrict outdoor time. Provide snug shelter. Warm your dog quickly if he starts to shiver.

Ice-melting chemicals and salt can irritate paws or cause digestive upsets if swallowed. Booties help protect sensitive paws and so can some paw pad protection products but be sure to wipe/rinse your dogs feet and if snow piles up between their pads during your walk, clean the pads out as soon as you see your dog showing signs that their pads are bothering them.

Season's Greetings Everyone - enjoy your Havanese and make sure you set aside cuddle and play time with your furry pal! You will be glad that you did! It's the best medicine that the world has to offer.

© Content published on this page has been a collaborative effort and provided by, and copyrighted by Darlah Potechin and Nathan Potechin (talemakerhavanese.com). No unauthorized reproduction or re-publication in any medium whatsoever is permitted without prior written permission.