Getting Your Pup to Be All They Can Be

"DEVELOPING HIGH ACHIEVERS"
Originally published as
"Early Neurological Stimulation"

by Carmen L. Battaglia

Surprising as it may seem, it isn't capacity that explains the differences that exist between individuals because most seem to have far more capacity than they will ever use. The differences that exist between individuals seem to be related to something else. The ones who achieve and out perform others seem to have within themselves the ability to use hidden resources. In other words, it's what they are able to do with what they have that makes the difference.

In many animal-breeding programs the entire process of selection and management is founded on the belief that performance is inherited. Attempts to analyze the genetics of performance in a systematic way have involved some distinguished names such as Charles Darwin and Francis Galton. But it has only been in recent decades that good estimates of heritability of performance have been based on adequate data. Cunningham (1991) in his study of horses found that only by using Timeform data, and measuring groups of half brothers and half sisters could good estimates of performance be determined. His data shows that performance for speed is about 35% heritable. In other words only about 35% of all the variation that is observed in track performance is controlled by heritable factors, the remaining 65% are attributable to other influences, such as training, management and nutrition. Cunningham's work while limited to horses provides a good basis for understanding how much breeders can attribute to the genetics and the pedigrees.

Researchers have studied this phenomena and have looked for new ways to stimulate individuals in order to improve their natural abilities. Some of the methods discovered have produced life long lasting effects. Today, many of the differences between individuals can now be explained by the use of early stimulation methods.

Introduction

Man for centuries has tried various methods to improve performance. Some of the methods have stood the test of time, others have not. Those who first conducted research on this topic believed that the period of early age was a most important time for stimulation because of its rapid growth and development. Today, we know that early life is a time when the physical immaturity of an organism is susceptible and responsive to a restricted but important class of stimuli. Because of its importance many studies have focused their efforts on the first few months of life.

Newborn pups are uniquely different than adults in several respects. When born their eyes are closed and their digestive system has a limited capacity requiring periodic stimulation by their dam who routinely licks them in order to promote digestion. At this age they are only able to smell, suck, and crawl. Body temperature is maintained by snuggling close to their mother or by crawling into piles with other littermates. During these first few weeks of immobility researchers noted that these immature and under-developed canines are sensitive to a restricted class of stimuli which includes thermal, and tactile stimulation, motion and locomotion.

Other mammals such as mice and rats are also born with limitations and they also have been found to demonstrate a similar sensitivity to the effects of early stimulation. Studies show that removing them from their nest for three minutes each day during the first five to ten days of life causes body temperatures to fall below normal. This mild form of stress is sufficient to stimulate hormonal, adrenal and pituitary systems. When tested later as adults, these same animals were better able to withstand stress than littermates who were not exposed to the same early stress exercises. As adults, they responded to stress in "a graded" fashion, while their non-stressed littermates responded in an "all or nothing way."

Data involving laboratory mice and rats also shows that stress in small amounts can produce adults who respond maximally. On the other hand, the results gathered from non-stressed littermate show that they become easily exhausted and would near death if exposed to intense prolonged stress. When tied down so they were unable to move for twenty-four hours, rats developed severe stomach ulcers, but litter mates exposed to early stress handling were found to be more resistant to stress tests and did not show evidence of ulcers. A secondary affect was also noticed.

Sexual maturity was attained sooner in the littermates given early stress exercises. When tested for differences in health and disease, the stressed animals were found to be more resistant to certain forms of cancer and infectious diseases and could withstand terminal starvation and exposure to cold for longer periods than their non-stressed littermates.

Other studies involving early stimulation exercises have been successfully performed on both cats and dogs. In these studies, the Electrical Encephalogram (EEG) was found to be ideal for measuring the electrical activity in the brain because of its extreme sensitivity to changes in excitement, emotional stress, muscle tension, changes in oxygen and breathing. EEG measures show that pups and kittens when given early stimulation exercises mature at faster rates and perform better in certain problem solving tests than non-stimulated mates.

In the higher level animals the effect of early stimulation exercises have also been studied. The use of surrogate mothers and familiar objects were tested by both of the Kelloggs' and Dr. Yearkes using young chimpanzees. Their pioneer research shows that the more primates were deprived of stimulation and interaction during early development, the less able they were to cope, adjust and later adapt to situations as adults.

While experiments have not yet produced specific information about the optimal amounts of stress needed to make young animals psychologically or physiologically superior, researches agree that stress has value. What also is known is that a certain amount of stress for one may be too intense for another, and that too much stress can retard development. The results show that early stimulation exercises can have positive results but must be used with caution. In other words, too much stress can cause pathological adversities rather than physical or psychological superiority.

Methods of Stimulation
The U.S. Military in their canine program developed a method that still serves as a guide to what works. In an effort to improve the performance of dogs used for military purposes, a program called "Bio Sensor" was developed. Later, it became known to the public as the "Super Dog" Program. Based on years of research, the military learned that early neurological stimulation exercises could have important and lasting effects. Their studies confirmed that there are specific time periods early in life when neurological stimulation has optimum results. The first period involves a window of time that begins at the third day of life and lasts until the sixteenth day. It is believed that because this interval of time is a period of rapid neurological growth and development, and therefore is of great importance to the individual.

The "Bio Sensor" program was also concerned with early neurological stimulation in order to give the dog a superior advantage. Its development utilized six exercises which were designed to stimulate the neurological system. Each workout involved handling puppies once each day. The workouts required handling them one at a time while performing a series of five exercises. Listed in order of preference the handler starts with one pup and stimulates it using each of the five exercises. The handler completes the series from beginning to end before starting with the next pup.

The handling of each pup once per day involves the following exercises:

Tactical stimulation (between toes)

Head held erect

Head pointed down

Supine position

Thermal stimulation

1. Tactile stimulation Holding the pup in one hand, the handler gently stimulates (tickles) the pup between the toes on any one foot using a Q-tip. It is not necessary to see that the pup is feeling the tickle. Time of stimulation 3 - 5 seconds.




2. Head held erect Using both hands, the pup is held perpendicular to the ground, (straight up), so that its head is directly above its tail. This is an upwards position. Time of stimulation 3 - 5 seconds





3. Head pointed down Holding the pup firmly with both hands the head is reversed and is pointed downward so that it is pointing towards the ground. Time of stimulation 3 - 5 seconds.





4. Supine position Hold the pup so that its back is resting in the palm of both hands with its muzzle facing the ceiling. The pup while on its back is allowed to sleep struggle. Time of stimulation 3-5 seconds.






5. Thermal stimulation Use a damp towel that has been cooled in a refrigerator for at least five minutes. Place the pup on the towel, feet down. Do not restrain it from moving. Time of stimulation 3-5 seconds.

These five exercises will produce neurological stimulations, none of which naturally occur during this early period of life. Experience shows that sometimes pups will resist these exercises, others will appear unconcerned. In either case a caution is offered to those who plan to use them. Do not repeat them more than once per day and do not extend the time beyond that recommended for each exercise.

Over stimulation of the neurological system can have adverse and detrimental results. These exercises impact the neurological system by kicking it into action earlier than would be normally expected. The result being an increased capacity that later will help to make the difference in its performance. Those who play with their pups and routinely handle them should continue to do so because the neurological exercises are not substitutions for routine handling, play socialization or bonding.

Benefits of Stimulation
Five benefits have been observed in canines that were exposed to the Bio Sensor stimulation exercises. The benefits noted were:
Improved cardio vascular performance (heart rate)
Stronger heart beats
Stronger adrenal glands
More tolerance to stress and greater resistance to disease.

In tests of learning, stimulated pups were found to be more active and were more exploratory than their non- stimulated littermates over which they were dominant in competitive situations. Secondary effects were also noted regarding test performance. In simple problem solving tests using detours in a maze, the non-stimulated pups became extremely aroused, wined a great deal, and made many errors. Their stimulated littermates were less disturbed or upset by test conditions and when comparisons were made, the stimulated littermates were more calm in the test environment, made fewer errors and gave only an occasional distress when stressed.

Socialization
As each animal grows and develops three kinds of stimulation have been identified that impact and influence how it will develop and be shaped as an individual. The first stage is called early neurological stimulation, and the second stage is called socialization. The first two (early neurological stimulation and socialization) have in common a window of limited time. When Lorenz, (1935) first wrote about the importance of the stimulation process he wrote about imprinting during early life and its influence on the later development of the individual. He states that it was different from conditioning in that it occurred early in life and took place very rapidly producing results which seemed to be permanent. One of the first and perhaps the most noted research efforts involving the larger animals was achieved by Kellogg & Kellogg (1933). As a student of Dr. Kellogg's I found him and his wife to have an uncanny interest in children and young animals and the changes and the differences that occurred during early development. Their history making study involved raising their own new born child with a new born primate. Both infants were raised together as if they were twins. This study like others that would follow attempted to demonstrate that among the mammals there are great differences in their speed of physical and mental development. Some are born relatively mature and quickly capable of motion and locomotion, while others are very immature, immobile and slow to develop. For example, the Rhesus monkey shows rapid and precocious development at birth, while the chimpanzee and the other "great apes" take much longer. Last and slowest is the human infant.

One of the earliest efforts to investigate and look for the existence of socialization in canines was undertaken by Scott-Fuller (1965). In their early studies they were able to demonstrate that the basic technique for testing the existence of socialization was to show how readily adult animals would foster young animals, or accept one from another species. They observed that with the higher level animals it is easiest done by hand rearing. When the foster animal transfers its social relationships to the new species, researchers conclude that socialization has taken place. Most researchers agree that among all species, a lack of adequate socialization generally results in unacceptable behavior and often times produces undesirable aggression, excessiveness, fearfulness, sexual inadequacy, and indifference toward partners.

Socialization studies confirm that the critical periods for humans (infant) to be stimulated are generally between three weeks and twelve months of age. For canines the period is shorter, between the fourth and sixteenth week of age. During these critical time periods two things can go wrong. First, insufficient social contact can interfere with proper emotional development which can adversely affected the development of the human bond. The lack of adequate social stimulation, such as handling, mothering and contact with others, adversely affects social and psychological development.

Second, over mothering can prevent sufficient exposure to other individuals, and situations that have an important influence on growth and development. The literature shows that humans and animals respond in similar ways when denied minimal amounts of stimulation. In humans, the absence of love and cuddling increases the risk of an aloof, distant, asocial or sociopathic individual. Over mothering can also have its detrimental effects. It occurs when a patient insulates the child from outside contacts, or keeps the apron strings tight, thus limiting opportunities to explore and interact. In the end, over mothering generally produces a dependent, socially maladjusted and sometimes emotionally disturbed individual.

The absence of outside social interactions for both children and pups usually results in a lack of adequate learning and social adjustment. Protected youngsters who grow up in an insulated environment often times become sickly, despondent, lacking in flexibility and unable to make simple social adjustments. Generally, they are unable to function productively or to interact successfully then they become adults.

Owners who have busy life styles with long and tiring work and social schedules often times cause pets to be neglected. Left to themselves with only an occasional trip out of the house or off of the property they seldom see other canines or strangers and generally suffer from poor stimulation and socialization. For many, the side effects of loneliness and boredom set-in. The resulting behavior manifests itself in the form of chewing, digging, and hard to control behavior (Battaglia).

It seems clear that small amounts of stress followed by early socialization can produce beneficial results. The danger seems to be in not knowing where the thresholds are for over and under stimulation. Many improperly socialized youngsters develop into older individuals unprepared for adult life, unable to cope with its challenges, and interactions. Attempts to re-socialize them when adults have only produced small gains. These failures confirm the notion that the window of time open for early neurological and social stimulation only comes once. After it passes, little or nothing can be done to overcome the negative effects of too much or too little stimulation.

The third and final stage in the process of growth and development is called enrichment. Unlike the first two stages it has no time limit and by comparison covers a very long period of time. Enrichment is a term which has come to mean the positive sum of experiences, which have a cumulative effect upon the individual. Enrichment experiences typically involve exposure to a wide variety of interesting, novel, and exciting experiences with regular opportunities to freely investigate, manipulate, and interact with them. When measured in later life, the results show that those reared in an enriched environment tend to be more inquisitive and are more able to perform difficult tasks. The educational TV program called Sesame Street is perhaps the best known example of a children's enrichment program. The results show that when tested, children who regularly watched this program performed better than playmates who did not. Follow up studies show that those who regularly watched Sesame tend to seek a college education and when enrolled, performed better than playmates who were not regular watchers of the Sesame Street Program.

There are numerous children studies that show the benefits of enrichment techniques and programs. Most focus on improving self-esteem and self-talk. Follow up studies show that the enriched Sesame Street students when later tested were brighter and scored above average and most often were found to be the products of environments that contributed to their superior test scores. On the other hand, those whose test scores were generally below average, (labeled as dull) and the products of underprivileged or non- enriched environments often times had little or only small amounts of stimulation during early childhood and only minimal amounts of enrichment during their developmental and formative years. Many were characterized as children who grew up with little interaction with others, poor parenting, few toys, no books and a steady diet of TV soap operas.

A similar analogy can be found among canines. All the time they are growing they are learning because their nervous systems are developing and storing information that may be of inestimable use at a later date. Studies by Scott and Fuller confirm that non-enriched pups when given free choice preferred to stay in their kennels.

Other litter mates who were given only small amounts of outside stimulation between five and eight weeks of age were found to be very inquisitive and very active. When kennel doors were left open, the enriched pups would come bounding out while littermates who were not exposed to enrichment would remain behind. The non-stimulated pups would typically be fearful of unfamiliar objects and generally preferred to withdraw rather than investigate. Even well bred pups of superior pedigrees would not explore or leave their kennels and many were found difficult to train as adults. These pups in many respects were similar to the deprived children. They acted as if they had become institutionalized, preferring the routine and safe environment of their kennel to the stimulating world outside their immediate place of residence. Regular trips to the park, shopping centers and obedience and agility classes serve as good examples of enrichment activities. Chasing and retrieving a ball on the surface seems to be enriching because it provides exercise and includes rewards. While repeated attempts to retrieve a ball provide much physical activity, it should not be confused with enrichment exercises. Such playful activities should be used for exercise and play or as a reward after returning from a trip or training session. Road work and chasing balls are not substitutes for trips to the shopping mall, outings or obedience classes most of which provide many opportunities for interaction and investigation.

Finally it seems clear that stress early in life can produce beneficial results. The danger seems to be in not knowing where the thresholds are for over and under stimulation. However, the absence or the lack of adequate amounts of stimulation generally will produce negative and undesirable results. Based on the above it is fair to say that the performance of most individuals can be improved including the techniques described above. Each contributes in a cumulative way and supports the next stage of development.

Conclusion:
Breeders can now take advantage of the information available to improve and enhance performance. Generally, genetics account of about 35% of the performance but the remaining 65% (management, training, nutrition) can make the difference. In the management category it has been shown that breeders should be guided by the rule that it is generally considered prudent to guard against under and over stimulation. Short of ignoring pups during their first two months of life, a conservative approach would be to expose them to children, people, toys and other animals on a regular basis. Handling and touching all parts of their anatomy is also necessary to learn as early as the third day of life. Pups that are handled early and on a regular basis, generally do not become hand shy as adults.

Because of the risks involved in under stimulation a conservative approach to using the benefits of the three stages has been suggested based primarily on the works of Arskeusky, Kellogg, Yearkes and the "Bio Sensor" program (later known as the "Super Dog Program").

Both experience and research have dominated the beneficial effects that can be achieved via early neurological stimulation, socialization and enrichment experiences. Each has been used to improve performance and to explain the differences that occur between individuals, their trainability, health and potential. The cumulative effects of the three stages have been well documented. They best serve the interests of owners who seek high levels of performance when properly used. Each has a cumulative effect and contributes to the development and the potential for individual performance.


Our Second Phase Socialization Includes:
• Taking the pups safely on different types of surfaces: carpet, concrete, wood, vinyl, grass, dirt, gravel, wood chips, etc.

• Getting them to play with different types of objects: big balls, small balls, soft fabric toys, hanging activities, puzzle pieces, kongs, fuzzy toys, squeaky toys, moving toys, animal sounding type toys, cooling pads, paper or cardboard items, metal items, sticks, hose pieces, etc.

• They go to the vets for their microchip and shots. We end it on a positive note always.

• By the time they go to their new homeds, they will have been in different locations: front yard, back yard, basement, kitchen, car, garage, laundry room, bathroom, crate, etc. After shots, visits with other dogs, people, places and much more including starting to get used to the leash for walks.

• We get them to experience various weather conditions such as rain, snow, thunder, lightening and when not available, create sound bytes to do slow conditioning.

• They will have met and played with new people: including children and older adults as well as those with disabilities.

• Been exposed to challenges: climbing between a whelping box, in and out of a bed, go through a tunnel, climb steps, go down steps, climb over obstacles, play hide and seek, go in and out of a doorway with a step up or down, run around a fence, played in a tub and sink when bath time with toys with and without restriction and learn the first stages of retrieve.

• They will have eaten from different containers: metal, plastic, cardboard, paper, china, pie plate, frying pan, etc.

• We will get them to eat in different locations: crate, yard, basement, laundry room, living room, bathroom, (minimally in the car) etc.

• Walked by high traffic, driven in the car, slept in different rooms and played in different rooms.
• Practiced on foam, wood and carpeted stairs.

• Grooming conditioning should include, cleaning bum, touching between toes, inspecting ears, arm pits, using a brush, comb and blow dryer.

• Lots of love, play sessions and training for pads and teaching them to do their duty outside with the pack.

We do this to enable them to be all they can be in their new homes. Their welfare matters and we never stop caring. We always want to hear from you.

References:
Battaglia, C.L., "Loneliness and Boredom" Doberman Quarterly, 1982.
Kellogg, W.N. & Kellogg, The Ape and the Child, New York: McGraw Hill.
Scott & Fuller, (1965) Dog Behavior -The Genetic Basics, University Chicago Press
Scott, J.P., Ross, S., A.E. and King D.K. (1959) The Effects of Early Enforced Weaning on Stickling Behavior of Puppies, J. Genetics Psychologist, p5: 261-81.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR: Carmen L Battaglia holds a Ph.D. and Masters Degree from Florida State University. As an AKC judge, researcher and writer, he has been a leader in promotion of breeding better dogs and has written many articles and several books.Dr. Battaglia is also a popular TV and radio talk show speaker. His seminars on breeding dogs, selecting sires and choosing puppies have been well received by the breed clubs all over the country. Those interested in learning more about his articles and seminars should visit the website.

Spook-Free Havanese Halloween

Among the numerous safety measures that should be taken for children during Halloween, our Havanese can sometimes be forgotten.

Halloween for your Havanese can be more frightening than fun. Here are a few tricks to make the holiday safer and less spooky for your Havanese:

• Walk your Havanese BEFORE trick-or-treaters start their visits. Keep a firm grip on the leash. Many Havanese are frightened by people in costumes. When walking dogs after Halloween, watch carefully for what they might pick up and choke on. Bits of candy and wrappers abound on sidewalks and streets after holidays.

• Place a dog gate in front of your front door to block access in case someone accidentally lets your Havanese out. Many Havanese will run out the door towards the trick-or-treaters to escape. You can also consider crating your Havanese, which can make him feel more secure and reduce chances of accidental escapes. Provide chew toys, a favorite blanket, a piece of clothing with your scent on it, or whatever comforts your little one. Play soft music or a recording of soothing sounds.

• Don't leave any lighted candles or Jack-O-Lanterns where they could be knocked over by a curious Havanese. Not only could your dog start a fire but they could severely burn themselves in the process.

• Keep your Havanese away from the front door if the ringing doorbell makes him anxious. Realize that children dressed up in costumes can be quite scary to your Havanese unless you have taken the time to slowly condition him. Just the sheer number of children can create uneasiness and induce barking.

• Keep your Havanese away from the Halloween candy. Chocolate can be fatal. Pick up any stray candy wrappers, which can be a choking hazard. Consider buying or creating Halloween biscuits especially if you have little children. This way they can share without feeling they are leaving your little one out.

• Dressing your little one in costumes can be fun but you should think twice about subjecting your little one to complicated costumes. If your pet does not have complete freedom of movement and complete ability to see, it can create an accident never mind be plain stress-filled and uncomfie. Do not use a costume that has small pieces that could be swallowed accidentally.

• Don't leave your pet out in the yard on Halloween. There are plenty of stories of vicious pranksters who have teased, injured, stolen, even killed pets on this night unfortunately.

• If you are having a Halloween party, unless your Havanese is very friendly and is conditioned to costumes, loud noises, music and lots of people you should keep them separate for the night.

Many Havanese can become agitated or distressed when they hear loud noises such as thunder or eerie music and loud noises from children. Common reactions include hiding, shaking, urinating on the floor and occasionally destructive behaviours like chewing through screen doors to escape to safe territory.

There are ways you can deal with noise fear. You can slowly condition them by playing a recording of the noise weesk ahead of time at a low level in the background. You can also get them to relate to the noise with 'good' things. A Havanese owner, Angela said she makes a point of getting Bella (her Havanese) used to the sound of fire works...everytime a firecracker goes off, she doesn't make a big deal of it, but instead gives her a treat...so she now identifies fire works sound with good things.

• If you notice these symptoms of chocolate poisoning, go to your vet or an emergency vet right away because your pet's life may be in danger:
- Excessive drooling
- Excessive urination
- Pupil dilation
- Rapid heartbeat
- Vomiting and diarrhea
- Hyperactivity
- Muscle tremors and seizures

Some Havanese view Halloween as smorgasbord of possibilities and need to be watched during this time. Know your limitations and do what you should to protect your little one.

© Content published on this page has been a collaborative effort and provided by, and copyrighted by Darlah Potechin and Nathan Potechin (talemakerhavanese.com). No unauthorized reproduction or re-publication in any medium whatsoever is permitted without prior written permission.

Our Havanese Breeding Guidelines

Recently I was reading through an excellent book, The Joyous Havanese, written by our friend, Kitty Braund. In it, Kitty reviews what she considers those things that a good and
responsible Breeder does and, with her permission, I'm going to share those things with you here and add my own comments in italics.

1. Puppies purchased and/or chosen to be future brood bitches or stud dogs should show potential in both structure and temperament. (We would only breed if our bitch exemplified both which is why we breed maybe once a year).

2. A quality diet should be a standard requirement for a potential breeding dog, beginning with the puppy. (We currently feed all our dogs Fromm's enhanced by those things we cook each day and add to their dry food).

3. Socialization of the puppy to people and environment must be an on-going, everyday endeavor. (Those that know us and have been following our lifestyle know that we not only frequently visit our "dog" friends but quite regularly have them over to visit us both to visit or to stay for a few days or a few weeks. We are very strong on socialization, helped out not only by the various dogs and puppy's that come to visit or vice versa but also by our two remaining adult children at home and our oldest daughter and two grand daughters when they come to visit).

4. Good mannering obedience classes are essential for the future brood bitch or stud dog; also classes for learning how to present your dog in dog shows are desirable. (All our dogs are graduates of obedience school. We have Canadian Champions, others taking theur turn in the show ring towards their championship and all have taken Obedience training courses starting after their puppy shots. We also have two that are pets. They will all live with us forever, equally loved and treasured). In 2009 we will be breeding Wasabi and in 2010 we will be breeding, Wasabi, Abigail and Fiona. The year after we will be retiring Wasabi and breeding our youngest addition, Treasure along with Fiona and Abigail. We lok forward to every moment that we will totally treasure.

5. You should join a local or national breed club. (We belong to the local Havanese Club as well as the Canadian Kennel Club. All our dogs are purebred and registered with the CKC).

6. You must complete genetic testing (CERF, BAER, OFA for hips, patellas, front legs). (We not only do all such tests but will continue to do them throughout the life of our dogs so that we help establish a medical history of the breed. This is something we take very seriously indeed).

7. You need to exhibit the dog at dog shows under Judges to ascertain quality and obtain the dog's championship before entering the dog in a breeding program. (As mentioned above, the dogs that we breed are Canadian champions.

8. Peruse books on genetics, canine structure and temperament; acquaint yourself with the various performance events. Note: Havanese excel in obedience, agility and tracking. (My wife and I have read just about every book we can get our hands on about dogs in general and Havanese specifically. We also communicate regularly with experienced and responsible Breeders from all over Canada and the United States. By the way, every Havanese we have ever taken to Obedience class has finished at or near the top of his or her class. Havanese are very intelligent and very agile).

9. Conduct research into the pedigrees of your puppy's background and conduct a thorough investigation of the pedigree of the stud dog you intend to have your bitch mate with. The stud you choose should help you breed away from your bitch's faults. If you own a male, the same studies should be conducted on bitches you choose to have him mate with. (We did background research for months before deciding on the sire for Wasabi. And when we settled on Rockhurst's Buster is wasn't so much because he was an American and Canadian champion but because he was such an excellent match for Wasabi in terms of producing a litter of puppies that might excel even over their beautiful parents). This tiem around we are breeding her to our own male who can be found in many of the videos playing with the pups and jumping in our pool.

10. Follow through with necessary veterinarian care. (We do it all and we will insist that anyone that gets a puppy from us continue to do so because it is the right thing to do on so many levels).

11. Be able to travel with your bitch to the stud's residence and/or work with a reproduction Veterinarian if chilled or frozen semen is going to be used for mating. If you own a stud dog, be sure you have the ability to house and care for the bitch for the length of her estrus and be able to supervise the mating. (We traveled to St. Louis, Missouri so that our Risa could mate with Wincroft's Buster. I drove to Wakefield, a bit north east of Ottawa, to breed Wasabi with Rockhurst's Buster etc).

Some of the content quoted above was from Kitty Braund of Our Joyous Havanese fame. She also does a must have magazine called 'Our Havanese' The mission of the magazine is as follows: A bimonthly celebration of this beautiful Companion Toy Dog - Information, education and pictures galore."

"Great articles by their talented staff of Contributing Editors, fascinating interviews and Havanese photos galore. Each issue contains the AKC and CKC Havanese standards. And sometimes judges (we send to Havanese judges) respond with critiques! U.S. Subscriptions for one year (6 issues) $36.95; Canadian $47.95 (U.S. Funds); Overseas $65.00. Click here to contact Kitty Braund directly and let her know where you found her.

© Content published on this page has been a collaborative effort and provided by, and copyrighted by Darlah Potechin Nathan Potechin (talemakerhavanese.com and Kitty Braund of Our Havanese). No unauthorized reproduction or re-publication in any medium whatsoever is permitted without prior written permission.

Leaving Your Havanese Home Alone

This is Wasabi looking out the window after we left. Where are you mommy and daddy? Are you ever coming home?

Havanese are social animals. You can often hear people refer to them as their Velcro dogs. It's not that they can't or shouldn't be alone at various times, it's just that Havanese really do prefer to be with their people or other pack mates. If you have more than one dog, they will enjoy having the pack nearby.

Most dogs will naturally experience some stress or anxiety when we leave them alone. After all, as pack animals, being left alone for a chunk of the day is not something that is naturally appealing to a dog. Despite this fact, most dogs are able to adapt to our routine, and when owners are gone, they generally spend a good deal of their day sleeping, and then are overjoyed when their people return home.

How They React
They may whine, cry, bark, or become destructive. But you could correct this behavior by setting aside a special time to play with and exercise your dog each day. Then, don't make a big event of your departure. Just leave quietly. When you return, don't pay attention to them till they calm down. This is rather hard but the best thing you can do otherwise the greeting may escalate and the anxiety may grow.

Dogs with separation anxiety often greet their owners with overly intense enthusiasm upon their return, and it may take a long time for them to calm down again. Our dogs greet us with enthusiasm but recover fast. This is different than a dog that has separation anxiety.

We suggest you reserve a day or two to work on the problem. Come and go frequently to show your dog that you will always return. This can reassure your pet. If problems persists, consult a professional trainer. If you have one of our dogs, call us, send us a note. We are always there for you.

Possible Contributing Factors
Traumatic events in a young dog's life may increase the likelihood of the development of very strong attachments. These events include; early separation from the bitch (we will not send a puppy out before its time), deprivation of attachment early in life (puppies kept in pet shops, kennels outside the home or animal shelters), a sudden change of environment (new home, stay at a kennel, long traveling time to get to you), a change in owner's lifestyle which results in a sudden end to constant contact with the animal, a long-term or permanent absence of a family member (divorce, death, child leaving home) or the addition of a new family member (baby, pet). (We think there's nothing like two Havanese in a household but it is important to train, bond and adjust before you bring another one into the equation. This way they will bond with you and relate to you as the alpha vs. their pack mate. Once you are established as the alpha in your Havanese eyes, the addition of another can be amazing, to say the least.

Many dogs can sense when their owner is leaving and become anxious even before the owner leaves the house. We go through rituals and our dogs are very sensitive to them - the clanging of the keys, the coat going on, the breakfast before you go out the door. Mix up your rituals so the anxiety does not build. The dog's anxiety level peaks within 30 minutes of departure and this is usually when most damage is done. Dogs displaying separation anxiety will often scratch and dig at doors and windows in an attempt to follow their owner. Chewing on household objects is also very common. Some dogs urinate and defecate in unacceptable locations such as by the door or on their owner's bed. Whining and barking for an extended period are also common concerns. Other dogs become depressed and will not eat or drink while their owner is gone. This is especially detrimental if the owner is gone for an extended period. With a Havanese, we suggest a dog walker, doggie day care (quality one). It's very hard on a Havanese to be alone all day. They are people dogs and need the interaction.

Strategies for Coping With Separation Anxiety
This is not a problem which the dog will outgrow or which will go away on its own. Neither is there a quick fix. Coping with a dog with separation anxiety takes patience and perseverance.

1. STOP PUNISHING THE BEHAVIOR
The dog will not make an association between shredding your curtains in the morning and getting punished in the evening. It will associate punishment with the owner's return, often causing an increase in the anxiety level. You need to practice positive training. You can accomplish this by giving them positive things to do while you are gone - jobs, find the toys, the treats etc Make the experience intellectually challenging for them. Boredom can lead to destructive behavior.

2. ENSURE THAT THE DOG GETS ENOUGH EXERCISE
Preferably, exercise should be provided by someone other than the person to whom the dog is most attached when you are dealing with separation anxiety. Get a dog walker, a neighbour or, if it has to be you, be sure to give walks longer than around the block. Use different routes. If they know that at 5pm they are getting a walk, they will have something to look forward to.

3. TONE DOWN DEPARTURES AND ARRIVALS
Much as you may want to sympathize with or reassure your dog, attempts to do so usually backfire. Emotion-laden farewells or greetings just increase the dog's level of anxiety. IGNORE the dog for 15 minutes before leaving. Then just leave. Ignoring the dog on your return is usually more difficult. Try to be calm. Change your clothes, talk to your family, then say hello to the dog QUIETLY. Praise him only when his behavior is correct.

4. STRETCH THE BOND BETWEEN THE DOG AND ITS MOST FAVORED PERSON
Have someone else in the family take over feeding, grooming, and exercise. The favored person should TOTALLY IGNORE the dog for several weeks. This can be very difficult, especially for people who like the fact that the dog is dependent upon them. But it is helpful to give the dog a wider perspective on life. It is also difficult for single dog owners. They may have to consider having the dog stay in a doggie daycare or with someone else while they are at work. This strategy can, of course, be used by anyone with a separation anxiety problem. At doggy day-care, the dog is entertained by other people, and learns that there is life beyond the favored person.

5. IDENTIFY ANXIETY-TRIGGERING SIGNALS
People often report that the dog anticipates the owner’s departure. Common activities which the dog picks up on are: putting on a coat and/or shoes; rattling car keys; and picking up purses, briefcases, lunchboxes. Once you have identified your dog’s particular stress signals, have everyone in the family repeat these activities often WITHOUT LEAVING THE HOUSE. Eventually, the dog will come to attach less importance to the signals and should be less upset when the real thing happens. Switch around your rituals. Sometimes, there seem to be signals the dog picks up which tell it you are only leaving for a short time. Trips out the door with a garbage bag or laundry basket are usually followed by a rapid return. If this is the case, take a dummy garbage bag or a laundry basket with you whenever you leave.

6. USE A SOOTHER
Some dogs can be distracted by a particularly interesting toy or a special food treat. If it is given just before the person leaves, it may be some time before the dog notices the departure. The dog won' have not time to get upset. An item which works well is a 'Kong Toy, or any of the toys that give your dog something challenging to do.

7. PRACTICE DEPARTURES
Once the dog is desensitized to departure signals, spend a lot of time going out the door and returning immediately. Do not pay attention to the dog as you do this. Gradually increase the length of time you are out and vary the time. The nice part of this is that, once the dog tolerates being left for an hour or so, it usually handles longer periods of isolation better. You do not have to train minute by minute up to the time you need to be away. If, at any time, the dog seems upset, go back to shorter intervals until its confidence returns.

8. DRUGS
Some vets may want you to use anti-anxiety medications in cases where the dog is so upset that even short departures cause great anxiety or when the dog is likely to injure itself in attempts to escape the house. We do not believe in them unless you have a very severe case. In some severe cases, drugs may be used in association with retraining, but they don't cure the problem. You are only masking the issue. Slow conditioning is the best way to deal with anxiety, fear and any issues that are unacceptable. Consult with your veterinarian, a behaviorist and think hard before you treat with drugs.

9. CRATING MAY OR MAY NOT HELP
If the dog has been trained to use a crate as a puppy, it MAY find the crate a source of comfort and reassurance. If it has never been crated before, it may find sudden confinement very threatening. A crate may still be useful if you get the dog accustomed to it GRADUALLY when you are home and again GRADUALLY for short intervals when you leave. If the dog consistently barks, digs at the crate door or soils the crate, stop using it and try another strategy.

10. TRAINING
The importance of training your dog cannot be overemphasized. A well trained dog has something to fill his mind, has better control over himself and is more likely to respond to you when you tell him to be calm and quiet.

We are lucky to work out of our house but this can also create an over attachment. Therefore we make sure we go out and live - go shopping, go to a movie - whatever life chores or fun you can create. This will help you achieve balance for your dogs. You will learn to appreciate them more and they will appreciate you more.

Most of all, enjoy your Havanese. We truly believe it is the very best companion dog you could ever own.

© Content published on this page has been a collaborative effort and provided by, and copyrighted by Darlah Potechin and Nathan Potechin (talemakerhavanese.com). No unauthorized reproduction or re-publication in any medium whatsoever is permitted without prior written permission.

Your Havanese's Sense of Smell

Okay Wasabi - where are you hiding Maggie? I know I can smell her and thanks to the rain, it's a fading memory.

Yesterday Maggie came to visit and I was stuck in the house. Well, Maggie is almost in season. I know it as I smelt it even though mom didn't let me go outside till she was long gone. I was already reacting before I was let out.

A dog's sense of smell is rather acute. Remember that humans when you put on that perfume. We like that freshly bathed smell. We react rather silly but Mags hadn't had a bath. It was something else.

Mom had to throw me in the pool to calm me down. I guess that was her version of the cold shower. It worked. It probably took some of those smells off my nose.

A dog can sniff out all sorts of smells that human noses miss. It's why it's so hard to get out accidents from those carpets.

We can train them for jobs such as tracking, rescue, seizure assistance or drug and bomb detection and to detect a wide variety of specific scents, such as drugs, fruits or the feces of particular animals.

Dogs that make a living by sniffing are trained to alert their handlers to the presence of these things by pawing, barking, or in the case of something dangerous, sitting quietly. They are trained by the promise of a favorite toy or play time each time they successfully sniff out the target scent.

How does a dog get the neighborhood news - often from smelling all sorts of things from a walk from a fire hydrant to a pole, to the ground - through its nose! Of all a dog's senses, its sense of smell is the most highly developed. Dogs have about 25 times more olfactory (smell) receptors than humans do. These receptors occur in special sniffing cells deep in a dog's snout and are what allow a dog to "out-smell" humans.

Dogs can sense odors at concentrations nearly 100 million times lower than humans can. They can detect one drop of blood in five quarts of water! Sniffing the bare sidewalk may seem crazy, but it yields a wealth of information to your dog, whether it's the scent of the poodle next door or a whiff of the bacon sandwich someone dropped last week.

When a dog breathes normally, air doesn't pass directly over the smell receptors. But when the dog takes a deep sniff, the air travels all the way to the smell receptors, near the back of the dog's snout. So for a dog, sniffing is a big part of smelling.

Next time you are wondering why your dog is sniffing that pole out front, realize they are simply reading the latest news.

Don't you wish you could smell like this? Well, then again - maybe not!

© Content published on this page has been a collaborative effort and provided by, and copyrighted by Darlah Potechin and Nathan Potechin (talemakerhavanese.com). No unauthorized reproduction or re-publication in any medium whatsoever is permitted without prior written permission.

Havanese Health Truly Matters

With us, care for your little one starts right from the beginning. We feel it is important to do all the health testing on the dam and sire before they are bred. This also includes all the right nutrition for the dam before, during and after pregnancy.

After the pups are born, we also practice a program to help us develop high achievers. This is important to us as we want you to have the very best Havanese companion possible. We not only practice the beginning stages of socialization but we also do everything possible to start them on the road to become balanced dogs.

We try to expose them slowly to various sounds and experiences to help them to embrace the world as the fun place it can be.

Play sessions outside of the playpen while your little one is developing in our home happens a number of times a day. It can be as simple as taking them to our kitchen to teach them all sorts of games, to adventuring outside. At night your little one is in their whelping box early on where we have access to them at all times and so does mom. Then as they get older, we graduate them to a playpen area where we can often be found laying in there with them to play. Their daytime playpen sits next to Darlah's desk and their night time playpen sits where their whelping box used to be. This allows us to not only monitor them but it gives us access to play and conditions them to all sorts of experiences. We can also start training them to go on their pads. We keep their area clean so they practice good hygiene not going where they sleep. This can be hard till they are on the right track. Some of this is a natural instinct but to solidify it, we train them to enjoy a clean environment. This not only helps us but it helps you. Early on we have a whelping box that they have to climb over, an area to get from their sleeping/play area to their area where they use their puppy pads. This not only helps them to keep things separate but it also helps develop their legs, strengthening them as they accomplish the climb over that they so readily enjoy.

We also practice good grooming where we keep their nails cut, make sure they are always clean and get them used to a brush and a comb, a look see in the ears, and a cleanup around the eyes. We bathe them several times by the time they come to your home. We do it all in a positive and rewarding way. They get snuggles and much more as a reward and if kept up, they will learn to enjoy the experience.

I also have at least one bath tub experience where I get on my suit, sit in the tub with the crew and add just a tad of water so they can splash and play. I add toys to help make the experience a fun one. I do this on a regular basis with our adult dogs as it's more enjoyable but if I have a quick cleanup, I use the laundry tub. Most people use a sink or tub. We are a tad unorthodox as we truly believe that if you expose your dogs to the elements in a fun way, you are more apt to have a more adventurous dog.

We could go on and on with what we do. Whatever it is, we always have a goal to achieve a balanced dog that is happy, confident and a loving companion. We always practice positive boundaries and limitations. The Havanese are people pleasers. This makes this an easier process than in some other breeds. Of course, we may always have the exception - the dog that beats to his own drum, tends to be more difficult in getting an end result but personally these are my faves. They are the ones where their minds are always working and once you achieve that bond and that avenue to exploit his/her creativity - well amazing is an understatement of what you will end up with.

Still, many prefer the docile type but even the most docile Havanese needs a walk. Put them together with another Havanese and often you will see the 'run like hell' game they are so famous for.

Whatever the personality, we steer you to the dog that will work for you. They are all unique and precious and just like us will have their own idea of what life should be about. They are dogs that adapt to your household and need people to thrive.

If any of our puppy owners have questions, we are always readily available barring an emergency (even then we have cell phones) but we want to hear from you. We want updated photos. We want to hear the stories. It's important to us. We fall madly in love with these pups and it doesn't stop when they go home to you. We genuinely care. We are but a phone call or an email away. We also hang out in the Havanese in Canada group and although it's not necessary, it is a fun place to visit to glean some great relationships. We also suggest you read all the data on Sonrisas Havanese website. Rita is an excellent source and our mentor. Most of our Havanese come from Rita. When reading her site and all that she strives for, you'll understand why.

© Content published on this page has been a collaborative effort and provided by, and copyrighted by Darlah Potechin and Nathan Potechin (talemakerhavanese.com). No unauthorized reproduction or re-publication in any medium whatsoever is permitted without prior written permission.

Socializing Your Havanese

We are lucky to have visitors on a regular basis from day events to sleepovers. We usually always have time for our pups when their families go on holidays. We get to see them, spoil them and have grand fun. It's sort of like the grandparent syndrome - spoil them and then they go home but we also socialize them and they do have rules and boundaries so we have balance in the pack.

We started this socialization plan when our Shoshi was shy around other dogs. It has worked wonders with her. She still has a tad way to go but she is a far different dog due to her positive exposure to other dogs. By watching other Havanese from our litters, we get to see how they are doing, help socialize them and socialize our crew as well. It's a win/win. We also have a yearly get together where everyone can get to know each other. It's great fun. It all helps.

By socializing, we help our dogs learn how to cope and respond, in a healthy and acceptable manner, to the spectrum of people, animals, places and things they might encounter in this world. We also practice a word association to help our dogs relax when they encounter something different.

By exposing our dogs to different kinds of people, we as owners can help create a balanced dog. What we do makes a difference. Everything from dog obedience classes to vet visits to walks to the park, to visiting our home and other people's homes can help them develop confidence and ease. This goes a long way in helping them become stable and balanced in the face of unsettling situations.

Socialization does not end at puppyhood. It is a lifetime adventure that will lead you into making new friends and much laughter and joy with your addition. In the book "The Other End of the Leash", applied animal behaviorist Dr. Patricia McConnell talks about "juvenile-onset shyness", a period in adolescence when dogs become more cautious and perhaps aggressive towards people and animals who are unfamiliar to them. If this aggression is due to a lack of experiences in adolescence or early adulthood, one way to prevent it would be to continue socialization well into adulthood. We embrace this and have seen it create positive results.

Activity is also very important. We have a salt water pool and Katsuro is a real water dog often jumping and diving off the sides of the pool many, many times in a day. Here he is totally tired after jumping in over and over again.

He used to wait till daddy dove in but now he beats him to the punch. Wasabi is also getting to really enjoy the water. Some Havanese love swimming more than others for various reasons but how you introduce it to them also plays a part. We have grand fun as Nathan gets all the dogs going on his swimming pool events.

We are also firm believers in walking dogs. It helps their minds and body. When a mind gets to see different things each day (we take different paths), it helps to eliminate boredom and it exercises the body. All of this is good for you and for them. With or without visitors, we take 2 dogs at a time - Nathan with 2, me with 2 and we walk them on long walks twice a day.

We also groom our dogs - meaning a thorough brush and comb, daily (some people do it every other day or twice a week depending on the need). If we have visiting dogs they get grooomed too. It helps you to see what is going on with their bodies and it allows you to minimize any knots or tangles. When you get an up close and personal look at your dog, you can catch any concerns early. If you end your grooming with a mini massage or a treat, they begin to look forward to it.

We are looking forward to the winter months when we can run through paths that Nathan makes through the snow for the dogs throughout the backyard. We will have puppies this year so maybe a radiant heater may come into our possession and we will all have a grand time. Otherwise, pups when old enough, will have their 3 to 4 play sessions in our kitchen area where we play retrieve and Nathan runs his fool head off back and forth to help them exercise their bodies. We also teach them about stairs and much, much more. It's all fun and we are looking forward to having a house filled with lots of furry ones real soon.

More later...

© Content published on this page has been a collaborative effort and provided by, and copyrighted by Darlah Potechin and Nathan Potechin (talemakerhavanese.com). No unauthorized reproduction or re-publication in any medium whatsoever is permitted without prior written permission.